Finally a great challenge that I actually felt envious about! And a sponsor for a product that makes sense! And the winning designer actually wins something! Mood shopping! And a two-day challenge!
And then there were five. Not exactly the five I thought would be there, but there are a few, including the “last man standing,” lone wolf Edmond. Funny when he said that it took me right back to when I was top five and the last woman standing. I felt like a lone wolf as well, with all those guys, who were sort of in their own “clique.” I felt a bit vulnerable yet empowered. It was a strange feeling getting this far to the end and thinking you really have to push yourself at this point, especially after being a bit shaken by my buddy Maya having just left the competition on her own accord.
It makes sense that there would be an avant-garde challenge at this point, because it motivates a designer really stretch his/her creativity. Just remember, everyone is pretty tapped out at this point. It is nice that the designers have such powerful visuals, the three dominant bridges in New York City, as their inspiration. On top of it, the 3D printing is so freaking cool and I would think that in itself would inspire and excite (most of) them. That said, not everyone gets the avant-garde concept and 3D printing is rather futuristic in itself, so I am not surprised that, for example, Merline was giddy with enthusiasm about this challenge, while Ashley seemed like a fish out of water. Just look at each of their respective styles and it makes sense.
I was a little disappointed and surprised at how small these 3D prints were. I was imagining more than that which ultimately becomes “embellishment.” Candice and Edmond were smart to make many of them, and in different variations/sizes, so that they are more integrated with the fabric as more of a textile.
I was sad that MERLINE did produce a better look in the end and thus was eliminated. She was so excited about this challenge and I thought certainly she would nail it. I know many viewers are not fans of hers, but I like her quirkiness and genuinely artistic approach overall. Frankly I am bored by some of the designers who make “pretty things” that we have seen already. Merline’s work was different, and while it was not always the most flattering, she thinks outsidethe box and I appreciate that. I love that she made a mood board. This shows she definitely has a creative process. Her design was not referential to Kini’s, as the judges tried to call out. It was simply a variation on gigantic cartridge pleats, and she should have sewn them better. I was disappointed at how little of the 3D printed elements she used, too; it felt gratuitous. The fabric she chose was great, though, in a beautiful color.
EDMOND’s look, based on the Manhattan bridge, was safe, because he could have pushed the boundaries a bit more. The gown itself was fabulous, especially the neckline and exquisite back. When I saw it walk out I KNEW that Heidi would be lusting after it. I am not crazy about the fact he felt he had to put his name into the 3D “embellishments.” It reminded me of Emilio during my season and how he made his print basically his signature. Nonetheless, the overall look was great, but without using the mesh over the model’s eyes, I would not call the design “avant-garde.”
ASHLEY definitely went beyond her comfort zone by making pants. That said, the look was not that cohesive. Tim had seen this early on and suggested using more of the sheer dot fabric on top. She opted for a cape, which was a good move because that is the only thing that made this look edgy enough to be avant-garde, and it is bordering on costumey. I am not crazy about her 3D elements either, and don’t see much “bridge” inspiration overall. After the last few challenges, I am honestly not excited to see what Ashley does next, whereas I would have like to see more from Merline.
KELLY’s look was definitely literal, but I think my biggest problem with it was the fabric choice. Frankly the mock-croc is hideous and the whole thing kept reminding me of a strange cheap vinyl handbag. The crisscross details were definitely beautiful and elevated the design significantly. I did not care at all for the “bricks” she made with the CUBE printer. I don’t think the win was fully merited when there was so little utilization of the 3D elements, a key component to this challenge. I had a chuckle when Tim referred to the design in the workroom as a “riff on a classic pannier dress” and she was lie a deer in headlights, no doubt wishing she had her phone to google it. I wonder if she will actually use the CUBE she gets to take home?
CANDICE’s designs have never really thrilled me. I always felt they were not quite there. This gown is no different. While I do think it is one of her better designs, and I do love how she used the 3D printer – better than her competitors – using elements that really did reflect the Queensboro bridge, but I just can’t get beyond the gigantic fishtail which ruined the gown for me. I do love the color and the bust is gorgeous. Kudos to her on the fit as well. Is it avant-garde? Not really. Just a cool red carpet gown that Mel B would wear to the VMAs.
Was anyone else expecting for this challenge to determine who goes to NYFW? This is atypical for the show…what sort of twist will there be next week? A Tin Gunn Save? Or simply, “Here are your top three”?
Also, I can’t help imagine what Swapnil would have done in this challenge… 🙁
