Part of me really likes this challenge because there are no gimmicks. It is as close to a real fashion industry-related scenario as it gets on “Project Runway.” Let’s face it: the bottom line in fashion is business. What I learned from having my own line (being “in the trenches” and selling to stores, manufacturing, the whole shebang) is that 75 percent or more of being successful is about the business, not about the design. Let’s face it: it’s all about the bottom line and “what sells.” That is the main focus of buyers–when they look at the garment they immediately try to relate it to their customers. Who would buy this and where would she wear it? How much will it retail for? Of course they look for quality and design as well. But ultimately if it sells well, it’s a winner, and they come back for more.
Then part of me is sad because “fast fashion” = watered down design for the masses. In this challenge, the sponsor JustFab described by its fashion director as an “online fast fashion retailer” has outlined five different “style personas” or customer categories they feel women fall into: Bombshell, Trendsetter, Girl Next Door, Modern Classic, and Femme Nouveau. Designers must create a “high fashion look” (oxymoron here…since the goal is to sell to the masses, which is the opposite of high fashion) appealing to one of these categories. What’s more, the look must be affordable. The Mood budget is only $100. And, you guessed it: the winning design will be reproduced and sold on JustFab. Being that the fashion director for JustFab is one of the judges, you’d better believe the looks will be judged on whether or not it could sell. Sure enough, I heard “that would/ wouldn’t sell” multiple times by ALL judges during critiques. Ciara, the guest judge, was just excited to be there.
Candice, who won the last challenge, gets to choose her category first, and probably like you, I was quite surprised she did not choose “Bombshell” since this category descriptive fits her design POV to a T! She is always telling us about this strong, powerful, sexy woman she designs for, yet she chooses “Trendsetter” (“edgy / eclectic / unique”), which I don’t necessarily see as the right fit. She then holds the cards in that Tim asks her to assign each of her opponents their “style personas.” That is a tough spot to be in. Candice decides she is going to try to assign them based on each designer’s natural design propensity, rather than throwing curveballs at everyone, which would have made for better TV! The producers must have been bummed. I can’t say what I would do in this situation. It is easy for me to sit on this side of the screen and say, “You have to be more of a competitor than that!” and to say that I would have thrown some curveballs. After all, it IS a competition. But Candice does have a point, and her point is a belief which I happen to typically subscribe to. If she wins, it will be based on the greatness of her design, not because others didn’t do as well. That said, in life we may all be on our own paths, but in “Project Runway,” it’s about highest scores on the runway. If your competitors’ scores are lower than yours, well then you might just win.
I was concerned when SWAPNIL chose leopard print fabric, because it can so easily go tacky and cheap. His gown was a LOT of look, but no doubt it said “bombshell,” the category he was given. The judges were polarized on the cocoon jacket. I happen to love it, because it elevated the gown. (And, I have a weakness for cocoon shapes.) However, the entire design was too sophisticated for fast fashion, particularly the cocoon. He also had a zipper mishap and because of it, added a beaded piece to cover up what I assume is hand stitching (?) at the derriere. This “butt flap” was extraneous and unnecessary for the design. I just wonder where he got it? Was it something he purchased at Mood, or an accessory from the wall?
The first thing thought of when I saw KELLY’s look was “Burning Man meets speed skater.” I just don’t know who wears this and where she wears it, outside of to a hallucinogenic music festival, which is obviously not fashion forward or trend driven. The style persona she was given was Trendsetter, which was described as “edgy, eclectic, and unique.” So…okay…this look certainly fits that bill. However I do not see this selling well in any way, except to a 10-year-old girl. The Muppet vest would be a big hit.
I knew MERLINE would struggle with this challenge because her work is generally pretty avant-garde and artsy-sophisticated. “Feminine” is the last descriptive I’d use for Merline’s design in general, so I’m sure this was a challenge for her. Not to mention it is difficult to water her designs down for the masses. You can tell she struggled with this and the overall result was poorly constructed and had fit issues. Her touch of femininity was the lacy bits and it was smart to choose white so the look felt lighter. She was almost eliminated for this dress, which was far too sophisticated for “fast fashion.”
I don’t feel CANDICE’s look was particularly trendsetting. Like most of the judges, I was bothered by the quasi-sailor top which had too much black and white striped fabric attached at the neckline. The skirt was interesting but I agree with Ciara and others who immediately pointed out that the added volume is sitting at a bad place on the hip. Only someone with narrow hips could get away with wearing that skirt, and Candice should know better than to add volume to the most sensitive area for most women.
ASHLEY was disappointed that she was assigned Girl Next Door, but she more or less nailed it. At first I thought the midriff and biker jacket were too sassy for the GND, and in some parts of the country they are. But for the teen/junior customer, this look is perfect. The moto jacket has been a trend for several seasons now, which means at this point it has trickled down to mass market. I personally am not a huge fan of the gold pleather that Ashley used BUT by making it in this color and with back pleated detail, it is softer and younger, and (almost) works with the print she selected. Like Tim, I was not digging the combination of that print with the gold pleather, but by the time I saw the critique it had started to grow on me. No doubt about it, this little jacket would sell really well, especially if it was produced in a couple of colors and black.
It was LAURIE’s time to go. After last week’s blunder and previous somewhat mediocre work, she did not step up her game. She received the category with the least amount of design potential, Modern Classic. And while the look fit the bill, there was not much unique about it. Plus, the sheer, backless top is only wearable by 5 percent of women. I am shocked that a female designer would not consider undergarments, especially in a challenge geared towards appealing to everywoman. A smarter move would have been to do a twist on a tailored blazer. Doesn’t everyone love a great blazer?!
As much as they may not be trending, there is always a market for bodycon dresses. EDMOND had to rework things after realizing his main fabric choice was not cutting it. Amazingly he had had enough Mood money to buy a backup fabric, a red stretch, with which he designed the winning look, a hot red dress with just enough detail to make it interesting but not tacky. I felt he did a good job and completely fulfilled the challenge not only in his category, Bombshell, butalso to design a dress which would appeal to many and not be terribly costly to manufacture. Pretty much a home run.
